Sorry about the lack of posting of late. For several weeks, I have just been busy and not in the mood.
Then, I went to Oklahoma for a week deer hunting. [Yes, I killed a nice 8 pt that the landowner said was in the "140 class". I haven't measured him so I can keep saying that.]
Something solid coming in the next few days...
Dr. Coffman
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Friday, October 17, 2008
Energy Supplements for Hunting Dogs
I guess the most common question I get around field trials and hunt tests involves something to "give my dog a boost". This desire for helping dogs perform better is reflected in the dozens of products for sale that offer nutritional supplementation. If we look closely at the energy needs of hard working dogs, we can make a better choice as to which product to buy and even if we need to supplement our hunting dogs.
In my view, the very best supplement available is just another handful of dog food. The commercial diets available for hunting dogs today (the one's with the word performance in their brand name) offer a balanced, complete nutritional matrix that outperforms any magic powder you mix in the food or in the dog's water. Most dogs that I see professionally that are off in weight or lacking stamina either have a medical condition or they are not getting enough of the right kind of dog food. This means 20% fat on the bag's label from a respected manufacturer.
Fat is where it is at for hunting dogs. These high-fat diets allow for maximum energy usage. Even dogs that are soft and out of condition perform better when fed a high-fat diet. Ideally, the dog is fed this type diet for at least 8 weeks before hunting season begins to allow for the little energy furnace in muscle cells to adapt to the high energy foods.
For maximum endurance, you should not feed your dog the night before going hunting. My Dad told me that 40 years ago and now his advice is documented by real research. This tactic can increase a dog's endurance by up to twice what it would have been if he were fed the night before. In addition, do not feed your dog the morning before going out. The reasons are two-fold: First, the empty gut allows for less straining to defecate, decreases the level of intestinal flopping around in the abdomen, and just makes the dog lighter in weight. Secondly, if a dog eats a big meal, his insulin "spikes" which tends to decrease the animal's ability to mobilize stored fat thus decreasing his energy level.
If you insist on giving your dog an energy snack during the day, pick a high-fat, small volume treat like a hot dog wiener or a piece of that old deer sausage you didn't eat last summer. But, if you do that, keep it minimal and give it to him just before you turn him loose.
Obviously, if you hunting for several days in a row, you have to feed him sometime. I recommend feeding him as soon as possible after you come in from the field or blind. Let him cool off for a while, say 1 hour, then feed him before you go out to eat or to a bar.
All that being said, most hunters want something to give to the dog during a day's hunt or at least at night to give them a "carb boost". After several days of hard hunting, the dog's stored energy (called glycogen) will be decreased, so it is acceptable then to begin some type of daily supplementation. The key ingredient in these type products is maltodextrin, typically mixed in water which you can carry in your vest or blind bag. Pure maltodextrin is available and you can mix about 1/3 cup per 40 pounds bodyweight in about 2 cups of water. This is the gold standard for carb boosting.
One commercially available product that I have personally used and believe in is called K9-Restart made by Tech Mix (www.techmixinc.com). K9Restart in only 10% fat but it does have maltodextrin in it. I have used this product for several years and it is one of the few that I can say that I actually see a difference in the dog's performance. It is cheap and good which is rare nowadays.
While providing extra energy is important, do not overlook the need for hydration. A dog with a dry nose cannot smell as well as one that is well hydrated. The use of electrolytes in dogs is controversial. Some experts think that adding electrolytes may actually increase the level of dehydration while others think that dogs lose some electrolytes in the moist air panted via the respiratory tract.
Bottom Line: Feed correctly and timely. Give your dog some type of energy supplement just before going hunting, i.e. a wiener and maybe give him some K9 Restart as the day progresses.
Feed him as soon as possible after he cools down and provide plenty of water. Keep him healthy and you will be doing all you can do.
In my view, the very best supplement available is just another handful of dog food. The commercial diets available for hunting dogs today (the one's with the word performance in their brand name) offer a balanced, complete nutritional matrix that outperforms any magic powder you mix in the food or in the dog's water. Most dogs that I see professionally that are off in weight or lacking stamina either have a medical condition or they are not getting enough of the right kind of dog food. This means 20% fat on the bag's label from a respected manufacturer.
Fat is where it is at for hunting dogs. These high-fat diets allow for maximum energy usage. Even dogs that are soft and out of condition perform better when fed a high-fat diet. Ideally, the dog is fed this type diet for at least 8 weeks before hunting season begins to allow for the little energy furnace in muscle cells to adapt to the high energy foods.
For maximum endurance, you should not feed your dog the night before going hunting. My Dad told me that 40 years ago and now his advice is documented by real research. This tactic can increase a dog's endurance by up to twice what it would have been if he were fed the night before. In addition, do not feed your dog the morning before going out. The reasons are two-fold: First, the empty gut allows for less straining to defecate, decreases the level of intestinal flopping around in the abdomen, and just makes the dog lighter in weight. Secondly, if a dog eats a big meal, his insulin "spikes" which tends to decrease the animal's ability to mobilize stored fat thus decreasing his energy level.
If you insist on giving your dog an energy snack during the day, pick a high-fat, small volume treat like a hot dog wiener or a piece of that old deer sausage you didn't eat last summer. But, if you do that, keep it minimal and give it to him just before you turn him loose.
Obviously, if you hunting for several days in a row, you have to feed him sometime. I recommend feeding him as soon as possible after you come in from the field or blind. Let him cool off for a while, say 1 hour, then feed him before you go out to eat or to a bar.
All that being said, most hunters want something to give to the dog during a day's hunt or at least at night to give them a "carb boost". After several days of hard hunting, the dog's stored energy (called glycogen) will be decreased, so it is acceptable then to begin some type of daily supplementation. The key ingredient in these type products is maltodextrin, typically mixed in water which you can carry in your vest or blind bag. Pure maltodextrin is available and you can mix about 1/3 cup per 40 pounds bodyweight in about 2 cups of water. This is the gold standard for carb boosting.
One commercially available product that I have personally used and believe in is called K9-Restart made by Tech Mix (www.techmixinc.com). K9Restart in only 10% fat but it does have maltodextrin in it. I have used this product for several years and it is one of the few that I can say that I actually see a difference in the dog's performance. It is cheap and good which is rare nowadays.
While providing extra energy is important, do not overlook the need for hydration. A dog with a dry nose cannot smell as well as one that is well hydrated. The use of electrolytes in dogs is controversial. Some experts think that adding electrolytes may actually increase the level of dehydration while others think that dogs lose some electrolytes in the moist air panted via the respiratory tract.
Bottom Line: Feed correctly and timely. Give your dog some type of energy supplement just before going hunting, i.e. a wiener and maybe give him some K9 Restart as the day progresses.
Feed him as soon as possible after he cools down and provide plenty of water. Keep him healthy and you will be doing all you can do.
Friday, October 10, 2008
Is Linebreeding Really a Good Idea
When our various breeds were first being developed, decades ago, it was necessary to "set" the desirable genes to establish the breed types. As the years went by, certain outstanding individuals were heavily bred to create a reproducible type that exhibited the needed hunting traits.
Now, in some cases, centuries later, the need for close breeding is not as crucial because the desirable traits are ingrained in our breeds. For the backyard breeder, an intense line breeding program is often just not practical. To create a family of dogs that are very homozygous for the desirable hunting traits requires maintaining a large number of breeding dogs and producing a large number of puppies to allow selection and the inevitable culling that goes with the program. Believe me, that culling ain't that much fun.
While line-breeding and in-breeding can help solidify the desirable traits in our breeding programs, the downsides (lowered vigor, increased genetic defects, etc.) outweigh the benefits in well established breeds.
In my view, small breeders should avoid real line-breeding. Sure, it is fine to have some common ancestors in the pedigree if they were noted producers of good hunting dogs but for the vast majority of us, a simple "best-to-best" approach is more workable.
In my own kennel, I look at what I need in a certain female...say it is trainability or biddability. I look for a male that was easily trained and very biddable. Sure, I look at his pedigree and maybe I will find a common ancestor or two. But, that is not my primary goal.
Breeders who have made a name for themselves as ardent line-breeders almost always had large kennels. I visited on kennel a few years ago that had 60 English Pointers on the grounds! They produced litter after litter. But, they culled ruthlessly. Again, for the back yard breeder, this is just not going to happen.
My philosophy is simple: Take the best female I own and breed her to the best male I can find regardless of distance or cost. Over time, that has worked about as well as any system. If you look closely at all the hunting breeds and research their pedigrees, you will find that the vast majority of the successful dogs are already related. Take the Beagle breed for example. When the first imports from England were done in the late 1800's, they could not have brought in more than say 100 hounds. So, logically, we can say that all the Beagles in American are essentially line-bred already. So, even a blatant out-cross still offers a degree of close breeding. I think this holds true for all the hunting breeds but especially the newer, smaller numbered ones.
Best-to-best. Hope for a common ancestor or two. But, don't try to establish a true line-breeding program unless you are young, have a lot of room, a lot of money, and a serious commitment to the whole project.
Now, in some cases, centuries later, the need for close breeding is not as crucial because the desirable traits are ingrained in our breeds. For the backyard breeder, an intense line breeding program is often just not practical. To create a family of dogs that are very homozygous for the desirable hunting traits requires maintaining a large number of breeding dogs and producing a large number of puppies to allow selection and the inevitable culling that goes with the program. Believe me, that culling ain't that much fun.
While line-breeding and in-breeding can help solidify the desirable traits in our breeding programs, the downsides (lowered vigor, increased genetic defects, etc.) outweigh the benefits in well established breeds.
In my view, small breeders should avoid real line-breeding. Sure, it is fine to have some common ancestors in the pedigree if they were noted producers of good hunting dogs but for the vast majority of us, a simple "best-to-best" approach is more workable.
In my own kennel, I look at what I need in a certain female...say it is trainability or biddability. I look for a male that was easily trained and very biddable. Sure, I look at his pedigree and maybe I will find a common ancestor or two. But, that is not my primary goal.
Breeders who have made a name for themselves as ardent line-breeders almost always had large kennels. I visited on kennel a few years ago that had 60 English Pointers on the grounds! They produced litter after litter. But, they culled ruthlessly. Again, for the back yard breeder, this is just not going to happen.
My philosophy is simple: Take the best female I own and breed her to the best male I can find regardless of distance or cost. Over time, that has worked about as well as any system. If you look closely at all the hunting breeds and research their pedigrees, you will find that the vast majority of the successful dogs are already related. Take the Beagle breed for example. When the first imports from England were done in the late 1800's, they could not have brought in more than say 100 hounds. So, logically, we can say that all the Beagles in American are essentially line-bred already. So, even a blatant out-cross still offers a degree of close breeding. I think this holds true for all the hunting breeds but especially the newer, smaller numbered ones.
Best-to-best. Hope for a common ancestor or two. But, don't try to establish a true line-breeding program unless you are young, have a lot of room, a lot of money, and a serious commitment to the whole project.
Friday, October 3, 2008
Bad Boy Buggies
In the spring of 2007, I broke down and bought a Bad Boy Buggie. I have bought a lot of stuff for hunting over the years but the BBB has to rank as one of the all-time best purchases I have made.First, let's get the bad points out of the way:
- It is too tall. They need to shave about 4" off the height
- It needs a light inside. When it is dark, it is hard to find the right button to push
- It cost too much. They are approaching $9000 nowadays.
- It needs to run faster. It ain't no speed demon but I think it runs about 15-20 mph.
- Heavy...about 1600 pounds
- It takes more room than an ATV to turn around.
But, the good points far outweigh these "cons":
- Quiet!
- Will go in mud and water up to say, 8 "
- Runs about 20 miles on a charge. I have never run mine down completly
- Carries four hunters easily
- We use it about as much around the house as I do hunting.
Overall, I would give the BBB a 9 out of 10 in meeting or exceeding expectations. I have driven to within 75 yards of a gobbling turkey and did not spook him. Yes, I did kill that one.
I have driven within 50 yards of feral hogs without spooking them. Yes, we did get into them.
The Buggy allows an older hunter like me to cover more ground, find more game, and just enjoy the hunt more. I have a friend who swears he kills more game ON the BBB than he does OFF the Buggy. My dogs love to ride on it and I use it for conditioning them prior to hunting season.
Is it a four-wheeler? No. If you need something to handle the mud in rice fields, go deep into a bad area to get a big buck, or really hog across logs in heavy mud, a true ATV would be better. But, for 99% of my hunting, it has been totally satisfactory.
Thursday, October 2, 2008
More On Cruciate Problems
Since damaged ACL's (anterior cruciate ligaments) are so common, I wanted to expand a little on this situation in addition to the previous posts. A recent article in one of our journals, the Clinician's Brief by Dr. James Roush at Kansas State clarified some important points.
Medical journals refer to this problem as CCLR (cranial...same as anterior...cruciate ligament rupture), so that's what we will call it too. It is the most common cause of hind leg lameness in the hunting dog. If the torn cruciate in not repaired, permanent arthritis in the joint can occur.
There are some studies that show a genetic component of CCLR. While all dogs are at risk, larger active dogs have a higher incidence. It is unusual for a puppy to have this problem because their bones are still quite flexible. As a dog ages and his/her bones become more stiff, a sharp twisting of the knee (called the stifle) is more likely to put stress on the knee ligaments. There have been some researchers that think a mild bacterial infection may have a role in weakening the ligament. If a dog ruptures a ligament in one knee it often does the same thing in the opposite knee at a later time.
Typically, a dog with CCLR will be acutely lame for several days, get better, then become really lame in about a month. In our practice, we see both legs affected in about 20% of the dogs with CCLR.
Your veterinarian can diagnose the condition by manipulating the joint checking for abnormal movement or a firm swelling on the inside of the leg near the joint.
Treatment for CCLR is surgical. In studies done, 81% to 100% of large hunting type dogs will remain lame unless surgical correction is done. There are numerous surgical techniques for correction but they can all be broadly lumped into "outside the joint capsule" and "inside the joint capsule". In our practice, we only do the "outside" procedures. Typically, an implant of some sort, usually a very heavy nylon thread is used to stablize the joint. In the hands of more advanced surgeons, a procedue called a "TPLO" is currently the gold standard for CCLR correction. While the TPLO is considered the best procedure, some studies have shown no difference in long-term results using the "outside the joint" techniques versus TPLO or a newer surgery called a "TTA". Regardless, your veterinarian can guide you on the availabilty of TPLO/TTA procedures and their value compared to the "outside the joint" surgeries.
After any joint surgery, physical activity must be decreased for at least 8 weeks. Physical therapy for hunting dogs with CCLR repair has advantages because this therapy may get the dog back in the field quicker. Weight loss is also a part of the aftercare, even to the point of being a bit thin. Most dogs will be weight bearing on the surgery limb in less than a week and regain near normal gait within 6 weeks but total healing often takes up to 6 months.
The prognosis for CCLR repair is excellent with >90% of these dogs returning to normal function after surgery.
There is no known way to prevent CCLR except keeping your dog at an optimal weight, i.e. no overweight dogs.
Medical journals refer to this problem as CCLR (cranial...same as anterior...cruciate ligament rupture), so that's what we will call it too. It is the most common cause of hind leg lameness in the hunting dog. If the torn cruciate in not repaired, permanent arthritis in the joint can occur.
There are some studies that show a genetic component of CCLR. While all dogs are at risk, larger active dogs have a higher incidence. It is unusual for a puppy to have this problem because their bones are still quite flexible. As a dog ages and his/her bones become more stiff, a sharp twisting of the knee (called the stifle) is more likely to put stress on the knee ligaments. There have been some researchers that think a mild bacterial infection may have a role in weakening the ligament. If a dog ruptures a ligament in one knee it often does the same thing in the opposite knee at a later time.
Typically, a dog with CCLR will be acutely lame for several days, get better, then become really lame in about a month. In our practice, we see both legs affected in about 20% of the dogs with CCLR.
Your veterinarian can diagnose the condition by manipulating the joint checking for abnormal movement or a firm swelling on the inside of the leg near the joint.
Treatment for CCLR is surgical. In studies done, 81% to 100% of large hunting type dogs will remain lame unless surgical correction is done. There are numerous surgical techniques for correction but they can all be broadly lumped into "outside the joint capsule" and "inside the joint capsule". In our practice, we only do the "outside" procedures. Typically, an implant of some sort, usually a very heavy nylon thread is used to stablize the joint. In the hands of more advanced surgeons, a procedue called a "TPLO" is currently the gold standard for CCLR correction. While the TPLO is considered the best procedure, some studies have shown no difference in long-term results using the "outside the joint" techniques versus TPLO or a newer surgery called a "TTA". Regardless, your veterinarian can guide you on the availabilty of TPLO/TTA procedures and their value compared to the "outside the joint" surgeries.
After any joint surgery, physical activity must be decreased for at least 8 weeks. Physical therapy for hunting dogs with CCLR repair has advantages because this therapy may get the dog back in the field quicker. Weight loss is also a part of the aftercare, even to the point of being a bit thin. Most dogs will be weight bearing on the surgery limb in less than a week and regain near normal gait within 6 weeks but total healing often takes up to 6 months.
The prognosis for CCLR repair is excellent with >90% of these dogs returning to normal function after surgery.
There is no known way to prevent CCLR except keeping your dog at an optimal weight, i.e. no overweight dogs.
Friday, September 26, 2008
Ear Diseases in Hunting Dogs
Several years ago, I was in a duck blind with a classmate from veterinary school. The ducks were slow, so we started talking about veterinary medicine, our practices, and life in general. I told my friend "I need to be a specialist in something; some problem that no one can solve." He replied "Labrador Retriever ears". We both laughed but there was a thread of truth in his assessment.
Chronic ear problems in hounds, pointers, setters, and retrievers can be frustrating for the owner and the doctor. I did not "specialize" in this area but I have learned some tips over the years that may help others deal with this frustration.
Ear infections can be broadly lumped into three categories: parasites, allergies, and infections. Infections can be further divided into yeast and bacterial infections.
The most common parasite is the well known ear mite. We used to see ear mites on a daily basis but currently, the use of topical flea products plus heartworm preventions has decrease the incidence of the little mite. The classic signs of ear mite infestations are head shaking and a dark brown discharge in the ear. Veterinarians can easily diagnose the mites with an otoscope or a microscope. Treatment is straight forward with one of several ear mite medicines available. The newer ones are three times stronger than the over-the-counter products and we have actually seen cases of ear mites resolve in 2-3 days with the right medicine.
If a dog has skin allergies they tend to have ear problems. The ear is lined with a type of "skin", so it follows that these allergic situations cause problems in the ear. The most common allergy in hunting dogs is called "atopy". Much like hay fever in people, atopy is the result of an allergy-causing molecule being inhaled in the nose! It is rarely something the dog is in contact with but occasionally, it can be a food allergy to something they are eating. The treatments for atopy are wide ranging and variable from doctor to doctor. But, they fall into two basic approaches: blood testing the dog and "vaccinating" the dog for the allergy (called "hyposensitization") or controling the situation with anti-inflammatory drugs, e.g. cortisone. Hyposensitization is the gold standard but it is expensive and takes weeks or months to complete. Many owners elect to just give the dog something to control the allergies. This can be cortisone type drugs via an injection or tablets given at home. Another, non-cortisone drug called cyclosporine is also useful in these dogs. It costs more but has fewer side effects. Regardless of your doctor's approach, these anti-inflammatory drugs decrease itching, redness, etc. helping reduce the irritation in the ears.
Yeast infections are very common in all hunting dogs' ears. These infections can be diagnosed with a simple examination under the microscope of a swab of the goop in the ear. Treatment varies from doctor to doctor but there are several excellent medications for treating yeast infections and, typically, the clear up readily. Alas, they are notorious for recurring, especially if the underlying allergy problems are not addressed. (Yeast infections are often secondary to those allergies mentioned above.)
In the past, we saw a lot of bacterial infections in hunting dog ears. In retrospect, most of those infections were probably yeast because thirty years ago, we did not know much about yeast infections in the ear. Regardless, there are a number of topical ear medicines that treat bacterial infections in the ear. Ideally, the doctor will take a swab of the pus and culture it to determine the exact germ causing the problem and also determine the best antibiotic to use for the infection. At times, we use the "shotgun approach" using a broad-spectrum drug that will successfully treat a wide range of bacteria but, again, the optimal approach is the lab work to determine the best course of treatment.
Prevention of ear problems in hunting dogs is, of course, the best approach. There are lots of old home remedies like white vinegar (lowers the pH of the ear via the mild acetic acid level) to plain old alcohol (not recommended). Personally, I clean my dogs ears once per month (I am lazy) but every week would be much better. Use a piece of cotton (no Q-Tip), a product like Aurocin (available from your vet but cheap) to physically clean the ear. Splash a bunch of the liquid down in the ear; rub the ear a bit, and let it dry the ear up.
One other thing: look in your dog's ears once weekly to catch problems before they get serious. Takes a second and saves you money and the dog discomfort.
Chronic ear problems in hounds, pointers, setters, and retrievers can be frustrating for the owner and the doctor. I did not "specialize" in this area but I have learned some tips over the years that may help others deal with this frustration.
Ear infections can be broadly lumped into three categories: parasites, allergies, and infections. Infections can be further divided into yeast and bacterial infections.
The most common parasite is the well known ear mite. We used to see ear mites on a daily basis but currently, the use of topical flea products plus heartworm preventions has decrease the incidence of the little mite. The classic signs of ear mite infestations are head shaking and a dark brown discharge in the ear. Veterinarians can easily diagnose the mites with an otoscope or a microscope. Treatment is straight forward with one of several ear mite medicines available. The newer ones are three times stronger than the over-the-counter products and we have actually seen cases of ear mites resolve in 2-3 days with the right medicine.
If a dog has skin allergies they tend to have ear problems. The ear is lined with a type of "skin", so it follows that these allergic situations cause problems in the ear. The most common allergy in hunting dogs is called "atopy". Much like hay fever in people, atopy is the result of an allergy-causing molecule being inhaled in the nose! It is rarely something the dog is in contact with but occasionally, it can be a food allergy to something they are eating. The treatments for atopy are wide ranging and variable from doctor to doctor. But, they fall into two basic approaches: blood testing the dog and "vaccinating" the dog for the allergy (called "hyposensitization") or controling the situation with anti-inflammatory drugs, e.g. cortisone. Hyposensitization is the gold standard but it is expensive and takes weeks or months to complete. Many owners elect to just give the dog something to control the allergies. This can be cortisone type drugs via an injection or tablets given at home. Another, non-cortisone drug called cyclosporine is also useful in these dogs. It costs more but has fewer side effects. Regardless of your doctor's approach, these anti-inflammatory drugs decrease itching, redness, etc. helping reduce the irritation in the ears.
Yeast infections are very common in all hunting dogs' ears. These infections can be diagnosed with a simple examination under the microscope of a swab of the goop in the ear. Treatment varies from doctor to doctor but there are several excellent medications for treating yeast infections and, typically, the clear up readily. Alas, they are notorious for recurring, especially if the underlying allergy problems are not addressed. (Yeast infections are often secondary to those allergies mentioned above.)
In the past, we saw a lot of bacterial infections in hunting dog ears. In retrospect, most of those infections were probably yeast because thirty years ago, we did not know much about yeast infections in the ear. Regardless, there are a number of topical ear medicines that treat bacterial infections in the ear. Ideally, the doctor will take a swab of the pus and culture it to determine the exact germ causing the problem and also determine the best antibiotic to use for the infection. At times, we use the "shotgun approach" using a broad-spectrum drug that will successfully treat a wide range of bacteria but, again, the optimal approach is the lab work to determine the best course of treatment.
Prevention of ear problems in hunting dogs is, of course, the best approach. There are lots of old home remedies like white vinegar (lowers the pH of the ear via the mild acetic acid level) to plain old alcohol (not recommended). Personally, I clean my dogs ears once per month (I am lazy) but every week would be much better. Use a piece of cotton (no Q-Tip), a product like Aurocin (available from your vet but cheap) to physically clean the ear. Splash a bunch of the liquid down in the ear; rub the ear a bit, and let it dry the ear up.
One other thing: look in your dog's ears once weekly to catch problems before they get serious. Takes a second and saves you money and the dog discomfort.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Should I Vacccinate My Dogs for Lepto
When I graduated from veterinary school in 1970, we vaccinated every puppy for Leptospirosis. Over time, the incidence of Lepto decreased to the point that vaccination seemed unnecessary so most veterinarians deleted the vaccine from our core program.
About 6 years ago, the number of Lepto cases began increasing but the problem was that the newer cases were caused by a different "strain" of the organism than the old vaccine contained. Eventually, vaccine manufacturers developed new vaccines that used the more recent germs that were causing the disease. As a result, we have updated our vaccination protocol to include Lepto vaccine in some dogs.
Here is my reco: If you dog is a outdoor type, i.e. hunting or field trial dog, vaccination with the new Lepto vaccine is important. The newer strains are carried by deer, cattle, and horses, in addition to the rodents that have always carried the disease. In the past, if a dog was not exposed to rat/mouse urine, there was little reason to vaccinate for Lepto. But, with the new vaccines, dogs that hunt around deer and livestock are at risk.
If your veterinarian recommends Lepto vaccine, make sure the vaccine contains "all four serovars". Lepto vaccine is a bactrin which is an older technology. As a result, it does not give the long-term protection that vaccines for viral diseases do. We give two vaccinations about 30 days apart and at least one annual booster to insure protection. Leptospirosis is a serious disease that can damage many organs but especially the kidneys. I think the vaccine is worth it and routinely give it to my own dogs.
About 6 years ago, the number of Lepto cases began increasing but the problem was that the newer cases were caused by a different "strain" of the organism than the old vaccine contained. Eventually, vaccine manufacturers developed new vaccines that used the more recent germs that were causing the disease. As a result, we have updated our vaccination protocol to include Lepto vaccine in some dogs.
Here is my reco: If you dog is a outdoor type, i.e. hunting or field trial dog, vaccination with the new Lepto vaccine is important. The newer strains are carried by deer, cattle, and horses, in addition to the rodents that have always carried the disease. In the past, if a dog was not exposed to rat/mouse urine, there was little reason to vaccinate for Lepto. But, with the new vaccines, dogs that hunt around deer and livestock are at risk.
If your veterinarian recommends Lepto vaccine, make sure the vaccine contains "all four serovars". Lepto vaccine is a bactrin which is an older technology. As a result, it does not give the long-term protection that vaccines for viral diseases do. We give two vaccinations about 30 days apart and at least one annual booster to insure protection. Leptospirosis is a serious disease that can damage many organs but especially the kidneys. I think the vaccine is worth it and routinely give it to my own dogs.
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Choosing a Dog Food for Hunting Season
There are books written about this subject, so I will try to capture the facts as closely as possible in this short post.
Rule #1: It is all about energy. Energy equals calories. Calories allow the dog to have stamina, hunt with its mouth closed for better scenting, and calories allow the dog to maintain its body weight over a hard hunting season.
For all practical purposes, for our dogs, energy/calories comes down to fat. The percentage of fat in the diet on an as fed basis (that means what the Ingredient Label says) is the key. Think in terms of 20% minimum. You see, fat is energy "dense". There are a lot of calories in a small quantity. So, a dog can eat a normal amount of food and get a lot more calories per bite/cup/bowl etc. It is more difficult to provide these calories with a lower fat food because the dog just won't eat that much quantity.
Rule #2: Start early. Research documents that the little fuel-burning part of the muscle cell (called the mitochondria) takes about 8 weeks to acclimate to the higher fat diet. Typically, I start my own dogs on a high-fat "performance" type food exactly eight weeks before hunting season or the beginning of serious training.
Rule #3: Keep it up. Feed the performance type food, at least 20% fat, throughout hunting season. There is really no reason for a dog to lose 10-15% of its body weight even with hard, daily hunting. It is quite possible to maintain normal body condition if the nutrition is there.
Rule #4: Protein is important too. Daily work can be detrimental to muscle mass. Muscle is made from protein, so this ingredient is important if the dog is to maintain healthy muscle tissue. The standard reco is 30% protein. There is an old wives' tale that high protein diets "burn a dog's kidneys up". This is totally false. Studies on dogs fed up to 50% protein diets have not increased the incidence of kidney disease. Now, it is true that once a dog HAS kidney disease, they may benefit from a lower protein level. But, high dietary protein does not cause kidney disease.
Protein can come from many sources. Animal-based proteins like beef, pork, lamb, etc. are available as are plant-based proteins like soybean meal. To me, the optimal protein source for hunting dogs is chicken. One reason is that there is a lot of chicken available. The huge broiler industry provides humans and animals with a large source of protein so it is easier for a pet food manufacturer to purchase high-quality protein if they use chicken. I like chicken in my dog's food.
Rule #5: Carbs are somewhat important. Dogs don't have a minimum carbohydrate requirement. But, since carbs are less expensive than protein, manufacturers correctly use some carbs (grains) to provide optimal nutrition but keep the per bag cost affordable. Corn, wheat, and other grains can provide carbs for dog food. But, my choice is always rice. Rice is easily digestable; provides a quick glucose response (blood sugar goes up faster), and is ideal for hard working dogs.
Bottom Line: Beginning 8 wks before hunting season, switch your dog to a 20% fat, 30% protein diet made up of chicken and rice. Feed this food throughout hunting season. You will be doing all you can do nutritionally for your dog if you follow this advice.
Rule #1: It is all about energy. Energy equals calories. Calories allow the dog to have stamina, hunt with its mouth closed for better scenting, and calories allow the dog to maintain its body weight over a hard hunting season.
For all practical purposes, for our dogs, energy/calories comes down to fat. The percentage of fat in the diet on an as fed basis (that means what the Ingredient Label says) is the key. Think in terms of 20% minimum. You see, fat is energy "dense". There are a lot of calories in a small quantity. So, a dog can eat a normal amount of food and get a lot more calories per bite/cup/bowl etc. It is more difficult to provide these calories with a lower fat food because the dog just won't eat that much quantity.
Rule #2: Start early. Research documents that the little fuel-burning part of the muscle cell (called the mitochondria) takes about 8 weeks to acclimate to the higher fat diet. Typically, I start my own dogs on a high-fat "performance" type food exactly eight weeks before hunting season or the beginning of serious training.
Rule #3: Keep it up. Feed the performance type food, at least 20% fat, throughout hunting season. There is really no reason for a dog to lose 10-15% of its body weight even with hard, daily hunting. It is quite possible to maintain normal body condition if the nutrition is there.
Rule #4: Protein is important too. Daily work can be detrimental to muscle mass. Muscle is made from protein, so this ingredient is important if the dog is to maintain healthy muscle tissue. The standard reco is 30% protein. There is an old wives' tale that high protein diets "burn a dog's kidneys up". This is totally false. Studies on dogs fed up to 50% protein diets have not increased the incidence of kidney disease. Now, it is true that once a dog HAS kidney disease, they may benefit from a lower protein level. But, high dietary protein does not cause kidney disease.
Protein can come from many sources. Animal-based proteins like beef, pork, lamb, etc. are available as are plant-based proteins like soybean meal. To me, the optimal protein source for hunting dogs is chicken. One reason is that there is a lot of chicken available. The huge broiler industry provides humans and animals with a large source of protein so it is easier for a pet food manufacturer to purchase high-quality protein if they use chicken. I like chicken in my dog's food.
Rule #5: Carbs are somewhat important. Dogs don't have a minimum carbohydrate requirement. But, since carbs are less expensive than protein, manufacturers correctly use some carbs (grains) to provide optimal nutrition but keep the per bag cost affordable. Corn, wheat, and other grains can provide carbs for dog food. But, my choice is always rice. Rice is easily digestable; provides a quick glucose response (blood sugar goes up faster), and is ideal for hard working dogs.
Bottom Line: Beginning 8 wks before hunting season, switch your dog to a 20% fat, 30% protein diet made up of chicken and rice. Feed this food throughout hunting season. You will be doing all you can do nutritionally for your dog if you follow this advice.
Monday, August 25, 2008
Upcoming Topics
Timing the mating in dogs
Supplements for Hunting Dogs
Modular Kennels
Controlling Internal Parasites
Conditioning the Hunting Dog
Raising Healthy Puppies
Supplements for Hunting Dogs
Modular Kennels
Controlling Internal Parasites
Conditioning the Hunting Dog
Raising Healthy Puppies
Heartworm Prevention
Since we work with a lot of large hunting dog kennels, a common request is for us to "mix up some heartworm stuff in the lab for us to use". What they want is a cattle dewormer, Ivomec, mixed in a vehicle for heartworm prevention. Ivomec's active ingredient is ivermectin, the same active ingredient in many brand name heartworm preventatives.
On paper, and in real life, this off-label product will, in fact, prevent heartworms. But, the legal ramifications for a licensed DVM to provide this off-label product is complex. First, the FDA allows veterinarians to "compound" drugs for special situations where there is no alternative. But, with heartworm prevention, there are many labeled products available for this use. As a result, the FDA looks negatively on mixing heartworm prevention in the back room just to save a client money.
Secondly, if an owner is using this cattle product on their dog to prevent heartworms, there is a myriad of legal issues if the dog either gets sick from the product or gets heartworms while on this medication.
As a result, we have quit providing this back-room mixture to our clients. The good news is that since the patent has run out on the ivermectin-based brand name products, the costs have decreased substantially.
If you own a large kennel, you may be tempted to get a friend or even your veterinarian to mix you up some of the cattle product to save money. I recommend that you be very cautious in this approach because you are out on a limb if problems arise.
Everyone likes to save money, including me. But, there is a false economy at times and, with heartworm preventions, you are truly better off using the right stuff.
On paper, and in real life, this off-label product will, in fact, prevent heartworms. But, the legal ramifications for a licensed DVM to provide this off-label product is complex. First, the FDA allows veterinarians to "compound" drugs for special situations where there is no alternative. But, with heartworm prevention, there are many labeled products available for this use. As a result, the FDA looks negatively on mixing heartworm prevention in the back room just to save a client money.
Secondly, if an owner is using this cattle product on their dog to prevent heartworms, there is a myriad of legal issues if the dog either gets sick from the product or gets heartworms while on this medication.
As a result, we have quit providing this back-room mixture to our clients. The good news is that since the patent has run out on the ivermectin-based brand name products, the costs have decreased substantially.
If you own a large kennel, you may be tempted to get a friend or even your veterinarian to mix you up some of the cattle product to save money. I recommend that you be very cautious in this approach because you are out on a limb if problems arise.
Everyone likes to save money, including me. But, there is a false economy at times and, with heartworm preventions, you are truly better off using the right stuff.
Eli
Last September, I was visiting with my good friends, Gene & Lona Kluck from Watertown SD. I asked Lona "Which of your dogs is the very best?" She pointed to a black Drahthaar female named Enid vom Sodak.
I only keep females but, for several years, had been considering a male puppy to train. The Internet and magazines are full of great stud dogs, so I never felt the need to keep my own male. But, with travel, shipping and other costs increasing, I thought it might be smart to develop a male for my own use.
Eli arrived via airplane in March. Drahthaars are primarily braunschimmel (brown ticked) but a few come as schwarschimmel (black roan). The German registry prohibits breeding blacks to blacks to avoid the eventual solid black dogs, so the black ones are less common but Eli is certainly black.
In an effort to train this puppy "right", I dragged out all my old training books and made a spreadsheet with dates and tasks that he'd have to learn. We started with the basics: "Here", "Sit", and "Heel". He proved quite smart...maybe a bit too smart. Over time, he showed a willingness to learn and has been fairly easy to train so far. BUT, he is a rambunctious, ripping and running, wild one! (You will notice that I have the grip of death on him for his picture!)
I did not want to take his desire out of him but eventually, I just had to get a handle on him. Finally, at age 8 mths, I put the Dogtra Remote Training collar on him. He's grown a lot since the pic and is maturing into a beautiful, solid looking dog. These Drahthaars, to be bred, must be evaluated by experienced judges on their coat and conformation. So far, he looks like he might be special in the looks department.
Oh, he's a great responder now. But, I don't won't to get too dependent on that e-collar. This breed, if nothing else, is intelligent to a fault. They figure out quickly when the e-collar is on thier neck. I had an old retriever trainer tell me to put it on him every time I took him out of the kennel and the only day he did not have it on was during his breed tests. Maybe that is a good idea. I am not sure. I did that with Aggie, my older female and she still knew, after months and months, that the collar was absent.
One of the best investments I have made is George Hickok's training DVD's. About $50, and you get all four volumes. If I did what George says to do, I would have a well-trained dog. But, as everyone knows, it all comes down to time (and the right gear).
Sept 1 is "D-Day". After that, I hope to be less busy at the clinic and have some cooler weather. Then, we will step up the training to a more intense level. (I have seen 14 snakes around my house this year and killed two of them in my quail pen!). Plus, we have seen more snakebites in dogs this year than any I can recall. I have been cautious with my dogs as a result. Regardless, it is time to start serious work.
More on Eli later.....
Ear Hematomas
We see them all the time. A hunting dog comes in with a large, soft swelling in its ear flap. It is full of blood and called an "aural (for ear) hematoma".
The cause is continual head shaking from some type of ear problem (mites, infection, etc). The dog slings its head so much that it burst a blood vessel in the ear.
There are several ways to treat them. Sometimes they require extensive surgery to drain the clotted blood and sutured through and through to prevent recurrence. Other times, we get by with just a drain installed in the area and sometimes, they respond to just medication.
If your dog shows up one day with a swollen ear, don't neglect it because if it "heals" without treatment, an ugly wrinkled ear can result which permanently disfigures the dog.
Keep in mind, the real cause of the problem is usually down in the ear. That needs to be addressed too to avoid another aural hematoma down the road.
The cause is continual head shaking from some type of ear problem (mites, infection, etc). The dog slings its head so much that it burst a blood vessel in the ear.
There are several ways to treat them. Sometimes they require extensive surgery to drain the clotted blood and sutured through and through to prevent recurrence. Other times, we get by with just a drain installed in the area and sometimes, they respond to just medication.
If your dog shows up one day with a swollen ear, don't neglect it because if it "heals" without treatment, an ugly wrinkled ear can result which permanently disfigures the dog.
Keep in mind, the real cause of the problem is usually down in the ear. That needs to be addressed too to avoid another aural hematoma down the road.
My Drilling
As a versatile hunting dog owner, I always wanted a drilling. I checked the Internet frequently but all the three-barrel guns I found were too expensive for a country vet. I was at an outdoor show in Selma AL a few years ago and mentioned to a gun man there that I wanted a drilling. He replied "I know a guy that has several and he doesn't know what he's got." (My kind of man!)
Long story short, my wife and I went over to the fellows house (Never take your wife with you to buy a gun!) and I was able to buy a very old 16ga x 16 ga x 8 mm drilling. It was in good shape but had been carried a lot. Made in 1939 in Suhl Germany, my gunsmith "slugged" the barrel to make sure it was a .318 caliber (old drillings can vary in exact caliber, so you want to be sure before you cram a round in that rifle barrel.)
I have loved this gun! With those Drahthaars, I can go down in the swamp and hunt anything that moves. The chokes are both full which limits me on woodcock and quail, but for waterfowl, it is fine. Non-toxic loads for 16ga's are hard to find, mostly bismuth but it has been a effective marsh gun. The rifle barrel is very accurate. It has a button on the tang that elevates the rifle sight when you choose the 8mm barrel.
Keep your eye out for your own drilling. Try to find a widow that has one in the back closet. You won't regret owning one!
Long story short, my wife and I went over to the fellows house (Never take your wife with you to buy a gun!) and I was able to buy a very old 16ga x 16 ga x 8 mm drilling. It was in good shape but had been carried a lot. Made in 1939 in Suhl Germany, my gunsmith "slugged" the barrel to make sure it was a .318 caliber (old drillings can vary in exact caliber, so you want to be sure before you cram a round in that rifle barrel.)
I have loved this gun! With those Drahthaars, I can go down in the swamp and hunt anything that moves. The chokes are both full which limits me on woodcock and quail, but for waterfowl, it is fine. Non-toxic loads for 16ga's are hard to find, mostly bismuth but it has been a effective marsh gun. The rifle barrel is very accurate. It has a button on the tang that elevates the rifle sight when you choose the 8mm barrel.
Keep your eye out for your own drilling. Try to find a widow that has one in the back closet. You won't regret owning one!
Anterior Cruciate Injuries
The most common cause of hind-leg lameness in hunting dogs is an injured anterior crucial ligament, the infamous ACL.
These injuries occur as a result of a quick turn, putting undue stress on the knee joint. Typically, the dog is fine one day and lame the next.
While some of these injuries repair themselves with rest and medication, the vast majority require some type of surgery.
There are several accepted procedures to correct torn ACL's in dogs. They vary from the "extra capsular" ones where the veterinarian tightens up the joint with some type of implant, e.g. heavy nylon thread to the TPLO where a piece of bone is cut off the tibia just below the knee and relocated to correct the angle of the joint and repair the damage. The costs for these procedures vary from several hundred dollars to more than two thousand depending on the difficulty of the surgery.
Hunting dogs with injured ACL's that are not repaired can develop serious arthritis over time that may render the dog too painful for hunting.
Hunting dogs with torn or damaged ACL's should be evaluated promptly by your local veterinarian. Sometimes, the surgery can be performed locally but often these dogs are referred to veterinary orthopedic surgeons. I have a friend who's practice does over 600 TPLO procedures annually! These vets have all the right tools and skills to fix the ACL problem. But, we often repair torn ACL's ourselves locally.
ALL hard hunting dogs with injured ACL's require some type of rehab to get them back in the field more quickly.
These injuries occur as a result of a quick turn, putting undue stress on the knee joint. Typically, the dog is fine one day and lame the next.
While some of these injuries repair themselves with rest and medication, the vast majority require some type of surgery.
There are several accepted procedures to correct torn ACL's in dogs. They vary from the "extra capsular" ones where the veterinarian tightens up the joint with some type of implant, e.g. heavy nylon thread to the TPLO where a piece of bone is cut off the tibia just below the knee and relocated to correct the angle of the joint and repair the damage. The costs for these procedures vary from several hundred dollars to more than two thousand depending on the difficulty of the surgery.
Hunting dogs with injured ACL's that are not repaired can develop serious arthritis over time that may render the dog too painful for hunting.
Hunting dogs with torn or damaged ACL's should be evaluated promptly by your local veterinarian. Sometimes, the surgery can be performed locally but often these dogs are referred to veterinary orthopedic surgeons. I have a friend who's practice does over 600 TPLO procedures annually! These vets have all the right tools and skills to fix the ACL problem. But, we often repair torn ACL's ourselves locally.
ALL hard hunting dogs with injured ACL's require some type of rehab to get them back in the field more quickly.
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