I see it both ways all the time: the hunting dog raised in the house and the dog raised in the kennel. There are advantages and disadvantages of both.
From strictly a training standpoint, I think dogs kept in kennels do better because they know if you show up with hunting clothes or training gear, they are gonna get to work which is what they love. On the other hand, if they are lying on the couch and you say "Let's go train" the transition from being a buddy to a working partner may be more difficult for the dog to assimilate.
Health wise, I really think dogs do better in an outdoor kennel assuming it is safe, warm, draft-free and comfortable. I see many issues with dogs in the house from chewed furniture, housebreaking problems, and dietary indiscretion (eating the wrong stuff).
On the other hand, I have lots of friends who keep their dogs in their house and love it. True enough, the bonding process is stronger and there is lots of time for simple obedience training inside the home, e.g. teaching sit, stay, "here", etc.
Realistically, it is a personal decision and depends on your family's lifestyle, your spouse's tolerance level, and just the way you feel about your dog.
Me? I am a 50:50 owner. They live in the kennel but spend a lot of time in the house. At bedtime, they go back to their real home. Like most folks, I enjoy my dogs lying be the fire or my recliner so I can reach down and touch her.
Friday, December 7, 2012
Drahthaar Puppy
This is Christine vom Drakehaus, a 15 week old Drahthaar puppy on her first quail hunt! She's pointing into the brush ahead and held long enough for me to get a shot off.
I think she has potential.
Thursday, December 6, 2012
Shotguns
Look, I have owned practically every brand of shotgun available to the average hunter AND I have shot Purdeys, Parkers, and held one Boss.
Here's the reality: There's only one shotgun that a hunter needs: A Remington 870 Express 12 ga 3 inch magnum.
Of course, who wants to own just one shotgun?
So, for everything except waterfowl and spring gobblers, I shoot a side-by-side 16 gauge.
The 16 has the killing power of a "12" with the weight of a "20". Shells? Well, I do reload a lot of them but they are really not that hard to find. www.ableammo.com, www.ammotogo.com, or even the big box stores like Academy, Dick's, etc. have them all along. Ammo availability has not been a real problem for me.
Typically, I like a 1-ounce load because it is a "square" load for the 16. If you think you need1 1/4 ounces of shot, you actually need a 12. Over the years, I have gone to 7 1/2 shot for almost everything but that is mostly for convenience in the reloading room.
For pheasants, I admit I will put some 6's in my vest. And, believe it or not, we still do "drive hunts" for deer down here and I will cram some buckshot in (although my experience with buck shot on game has been universally disappointing).
My "go to" field gun? It's a Bill McManus Bird Gun but I also like the Upland Specials from Lion Country Supply. They are great for the money. I do prefer extractors rather than ejectors because it's getting harder to bend over as I age and I need to save the hulls. I grew up with double triggers and I think in the lower priced doubles, single triggers are more likely to require repair over time.
Now, on that 870 Express.................
Here's the reality: There's only one shotgun that a hunter needs: A Remington 870 Express 12 ga 3 inch magnum.
Of course, who wants to own just one shotgun?
So, for everything except waterfowl and spring gobblers, I shoot a side-by-side 16 gauge.
The 16 has the killing power of a "12" with the weight of a "20". Shells? Well, I do reload a lot of them but they are really not that hard to find. www.ableammo.com, www.ammotogo.com, or even the big box stores like Academy, Dick's, etc. have them all along. Ammo availability has not been a real problem for me.
Typically, I like a 1-ounce load because it is a "square" load for the 16. If you think you need1 1/4 ounces of shot, you actually need a 12. Over the years, I have gone to 7 1/2 shot for almost everything but that is mostly for convenience in the reloading room.
For pheasants, I admit I will put some 6's in my vest. And, believe it or not, we still do "drive hunts" for deer down here and I will cram some buckshot in (although my experience with buck shot on game has been universally disappointing).
My "go to" field gun? It's a Bill McManus Bird Gun but I also like the Upland Specials from Lion Country Supply. They are great for the money. I do prefer extractors rather than ejectors because it's getting harder to bend over as I age and I need to save the hulls. I grew up with double triggers and I think in the lower priced doubles, single triggers are more likely to require repair over time.
Now, on that 870 Express.................
Drahthaars
I think I saw my first Drahthaar about 20 years ago +/-. But, it took me a few more years before I actually bought a puppy. Here's what I have learned about them:
1. They ain't for everyone. If you just duck hunt, you might like one of the pure retrieving breeds better. If you just hunt upland birds, one of the pure pointing breeds are fine. But, if you hunt waterfowl, quail/chukkar/etc. hunt, deer hunt, etc. one of the versatile breeds is a good idea and DD's are one of the best breeds among the versatiles.
2. If the German breeders haven't done anything else, they have bred intelligence and trainablilty into the breed.
3. While one of the healthier breeds out there, they are somewhat "needy" in that they absolutely required companionship with their owner and do not thrive if left in the kennel all the time.
4. The JGHV testing system requires time-consuming training and a real commitment but pays dividends for years afterward while hunting.
5. Becoming a DD breeder is a lot different than other breeds in that the hassle-factor is much more and dogs cannot be bred unless they are "certified" by your peers in the testing system. Of course, when a puppy's pedigree for the past five decades has only dogs that: retrieved waterfowl, pointed upland game, and tracked wounded game your odds of getting a good puppy are increased geometrically. Also, due to strict breeding regs, you are not gonna make any money in the DD "business".
6. The breed organization in North America (www.vdd-gna.org) is vibrant and offers much to owners.
7. DD's need to go into homes of hard hunters as opposed to suburban yuppie-types.
8. If trained, they can make wonderful hunting partners and companions that you can take anywhere in the world and enjoy afield.
1. They ain't for everyone. If you just duck hunt, you might like one of the pure retrieving breeds better. If you just hunt upland birds, one of the pure pointing breeds are fine. But, if you hunt waterfowl, quail/chukkar/etc. hunt, deer hunt, etc. one of the versatile breeds is a good idea and DD's are one of the best breeds among the versatiles.
2. If the German breeders haven't done anything else, they have bred intelligence and trainablilty into the breed.
3. While one of the healthier breeds out there, they are somewhat "needy" in that they absolutely required companionship with their owner and do not thrive if left in the kennel all the time.
4. The JGHV testing system requires time-consuming training and a real commitment but pays dividends for years afterward while hunting.
5. Becoming a DD breeder is a lot different than other breeds in that the hassle-factor is much more and dogs cannot be bred unless they are "certified" by your peers in the testing system. Of course, when a puppy's pedigree for the past five decades has only dogs that: retrieved waterfowl, pointed upland game, and tracked wounded game your odds of getting a good puppy are increased geometrically. Also, due to strict breeding regs, you are not gonna make any money in the DD "business".
6. The breed organization in North America (www.vdd-gna.org) is vibrant and offers much to owners.
7. DD's need to go into homes of hard hunters as opposed to suburban yuppie-types.
8. If trained, they can make wonderful hunting partners and companions that you can take anywhere in the world and enjoy afield.
Monday, December 3, 2012
Tapeworms
I noticed an ad on TV this weekend promoting fenbendazole (Panacur or Safegard) for tapeworms.
While it is true that this product has a label claim for tapeworms, it is directed toward Tenia sp. tapes, a parasite that dogs get from eating rodents and rabbits. Yes, fenbendazole will probably treat this type of tapeworm, this is not the common dog tapeworm.
That one is Dypillidium sp. a different tapeworm which is much more common. The only way a dog can get this parasite is from swallowing a dead flea.
The only drug labeled for treatment of the common dog tapeworm is praziquantal (see previous post below.)
While it is true that this product has a label claim for tapeworms, it is directed toward Tenia sp. tapes, a parasite that dogs get from eating rodents and rabbits. Yes, fenbendazole will probably treat this type of tapeworm, this is not the common dog tapeworm.
That one is Dypillidium sp. a different tapeworm which is much more common. The only way a dog can get this parasite is from swallowing a dead flea.
The only drug labeled for treatment of the common dog tapeworm is praziquantal (see previous post below.)
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